With 16 officially recognised Indigenous groups contributing to Oaxaca’s magical mix, naturally the local cuisine reflects this diversity. The city is famous as a food destination. Whether it's enjoying a cerveza in the outdoor ambiance of one of the cafes around the Zócalo or savouring a seafood dish in the bustling Marisqueria La Red, or going for the upscale menu of Casa Oaxaca (or another of the city's world-famous restaurants), there's something for every taste and budget. My palate is decidedly plebeian, as is my budget, but I did have a couple of culinary experiences of the pricier kind in Oaxaca, and they're certainly worth a mention. My criteria for judging a restaurant's menu are: Is the food tasty and within my budget? Is the atmosphere pleasant and the service friendly? I am so not picky,
Two new acquaintances, Maura and Amanda, suggested that we share a meal at one of the top-rated restaurants in Oaxaca before going our separate ways. We tried to get a table at Los Danzantes (named for the nude male figures on the stelae at Monte Alban), but we hadn't made reservations and didn't want to wait for hours. We were hungry.
Two new acquaintances, Maura and Amanda, suggested that we share a meal at one of the top-rated restaurants in Oaxaca before going our separate ways. We tried to get a table at Los Danzantes (named for the nude male figures on the stelae at Monte Alban), but we hadn't made reservations and didn't want to wait for hours. We were hungry.
Casa Oaxaca
We were in luck, although we were not able to get a table on the rooftop terrazza as we had hoped.
I would probably have enjoyed the Casa Oaxaca experience more if we'd been seated upstairs on the terraza, with a view of Santo Domingo and the blue Oaxacan sky. Instead, we were led down a narrow stairway to a barren, windowless room with bare wooden tables. The high, white walls cried out for some colourful Oaxacan art. Overall, the room (see the photo on their website) had a kind of monastic feel. In such a situation, all you can do is enjoy the company of your dinner companions and hope that the food will be good.
The waiter stood beside our table and prepared a salsa in a molcajete. Maura had described this part of her experience on the terrazza as the waiter even offering a choice the colour of the tomatoes he should add to the salsa. Our experience this time was not so fine. After throwing my napkin into my lap, the waiter silently prepared the salsa.
My friends and I shared an appetizer of tostada de gusanos de maguey, chapulines, mayonesa de chicatana, aguacate, cebolla y rábanos (fried corn tortilla with agave worms, grasshoppers, chicatana ants, guacamole, onion and radishes). For my main course, I had the camarones, pure de nanche amarilla, poro asado y tomates tatemados (sauteed shrimp served with Oaxacan yellow “nanche” fruit puree, roasted leeks and charred tomato). Amanda and Maura both had a traditional Oaxacan rabbit dish. I'll say this much for it: It was an interesting gustatory experience.
This wasn't the first time I had eaten insects. My friend in Taxco, a Canadian expat, had purchased a book, Man Eating Bugs, before moving to Mexico. When I visited him in November 2007, during my first trip to Mexico, we went to a band contest in Axixintla on the feast day of Santa Cecilia, the patroness of musicians. The contest started around 8 a.m. and finished by noon, at which time the feasting began. Other than the rice, nothing looked unfamiliar to me. There was some kind of meat (possibly goat) in a spicy salsa. When I asked our companion, Señor Mota, what this marvellous sauce was, he answered, "Jumil." I had read about jumiles in my friend's book, and had seen people eating them from small plastic bags in the mercado. Still, I was glad that I'd had my first taste of jumiles unawares, and so got to form an unbiased impression of them. Eating agave worms, grasshoppers, and chicatana ants was just the next step.
I would probably have enjoyed the Casa Oaxaca experience more if we'd been seated upstairs on the terraza, with a view of Santo Domingo and the blue Oaxacan sky. Instead, we were led down a narrow stairway to a barren, windowless room with bare wooden tables. The high, white walls cried out for some colourful Oaxacan art. Overall, the room (see the photo on their website) had a kind of monastic feel. In such a situation, all you can do is enjoy the company of your dinner companions and hope that the food will be good.
The waiter stood beside our table and prepared a salsa in a molcajete. Maura had described this part of her experience on the terrazza as the waiter even offering a choice the colour of the tomatoes he should add to the salsa. Our experience this time was not so fine. After throwing my napkin into my lap, the waiter silently prepared the salsa.
My friends and I shared an appetizer of tostada de gusanos de maguey, chapulines, mayonesa de chicatana, aguacate, cebolla y rábanos (fried corn tortilla with agave worms, grasshoppers, chicatana ants, guacamole, onion and radishes). For my main course, I had the camarones, pure de nanche amarilla, poro asado y tomates tatemados (sauteed shrimp served with Oaxacan yellow “nanche” fruit puree, roasted leeks and charred tomato). Amanda and Maura both had a traditional Oaxacan rabbit dish. I'll say this much for it: It was an interesting gustatory experience.
This wasn't the first time I had eaten insects. My friend in Taxco, a Canadian expat, had purchased a book, Man Eating Bugs, before moving to Mexico. When I visited him in November 2007, during my first trip to Mexico, we went to a band contest in Axixintla on the feast day of Santa Cecilia, the patroness of musicians. The contest started around 8 a.m. and finished by noon, at which time the feasting began. Other than the rice, nothing looked unfamiliar to me. There was some kind of meat (possibly goat) in a spicy salsa. When I asked our companion, Señor Mota, what this marvellous sauce was, he answered, "Jumil." I had read about jumiles in my friend's book, and had seen people eating them from small plastic bags in the mercado. Still, I was glad that I'd had my first taste of jumiles unawares, and so got to form an unbiased impression of them. Eating agave worms, grasshoppers, and chicatana ants was just the next step.
As much as possible, I live from moment-to-moment. I'm not a "prepper," but I do have a strong survival instinct and am aware that the day may come when insects will be the best source of protein available. Although I'd prefer a bacon-wrapped filet mignon any day, it's comforting to know that I could eat insects if I had to, and even enjoy them if they were properly prepared. I have yet to sample all of the 10 tastiest insects and bugs in Mexico, but I'm open to it. The adventure continues.
Tr3s 3istro Restaurant & Oyster Bar
Tr3s 3istro Restaurant & Oyster Bar (Tres Bistro) overlooks the Zocalo and also has a fine view of the Catedral. Maura and I had eaten there one evening the previous week, but we were seated inside, in a booth. I decided to go back on my own, and had a cerveza while I waited for a table by the window. It wasn't a long wait, and the time passed easily in a chat with one of the wait staff, who told me she likes having opportunities to practice her English. Well, this is certainly the place to do it, as it's popular with tourists.
Seated alone at a table for four beside the narrow balcony, I ordered a rib-eye steak and a glass of wine, and sat back to enjoy the view. The sun was setting, turning the mountain visible in the distance to gold. The frenetic activity of the day had slowed, and people were sitting quietly around the Zocalo. (Things do heat up again once the sun goes down.) Ten police officers passed by, eight of them carrying a huge Mexican flag. The scene was constantly changing and endlessly fascinating. My steak arrived, grilled to perfection. The snowy white table cloth met one of my (admittedly plebeian) criteria for "fine dining."
Seated alone at a table for four beside the narrow balcony, I ordered a rib-eye steak and a glass of wine, and sat back to enjoy the view. The sun was setting, turning the mountain visible in the distance to gold. The frenetic activity of the day had slowed, and people were sitting quietly around the Zocalo. (Things do heat up again once the sun goes down.) Ten police officers passed by, eight of them carrying a huge Mexican flag. The scene was constantly changing and endlessly fascinating. My steak arrived, grilled to perfection. The snowy white table cloth met one of my (admittedly plebeian) criteria for "fine dining."
Tr3s 3istro offers good food, friendly service, a relaxed and unpretentious atmosphere, and a great view of life going on around the Zocalo. It's in the pricier category, but I like to do it once in a while for a fresh perspective.
La Biznaga
La Biznaga (some great photos here) is my favourite restaurant in Oaxaca, meeting two of my three criteria for for being a good restaurant: The food is tasty and within my budget, and the atmosphere is pleasant. While the service is efficient, it's not especially friendly. Although I've eaten there many times since 2007, I haven't yet worked my way through the menu. Recent choices were Zandunga (pollo con plátano macho en mole de guayaba) and a tasty Ceviche, both pictured in the slideshow below.
La Biznaga holds lots of good memories. I hope to go back for more soon.
Mercado Hidalgo
Because I was staying in an Airbnb room with no kitchen facilities in Colonia Reforma, meals during the six weeks I was in Oaxaca often consisted of salads of fresh greens and sliced meats purchased from one of the tiendas at the Mercado Hidalgo. Occasionally I had the comida corrida at one of the restaurants there.
While in Oaxaca, I purchased a cookbook, Milpa!: from seed to salsa, so i can prepare my favourite Oaxacan meals at home for my guests.
I'm looking forward to my next visit to beautiful Oaxaca. Next year, I hope.
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